Hangboards are an excellent tool to use to improve your grip strength. This grip strength, which is most useful for getting better at climbing. Many climbers utilize a hangboard as a way to work on their grip strength at home.
At a compact size they're great to grow stronger forearms, and improve how long you can use a hold. Today we'll take a look at the best hangboards for climbing.
IMAGE
PRODUCT
PRODUCT DETAILS
OUR #1 RATED
Metolius
Project
The hold features a taper that goes outward and downward for better ergonomics and texture.
Metolius
Simulator 3D
Top training board with a variety of holds. It also tapers outwards with a broad arc for improved ergonomics.
Metolius
Rock Rings 3D
A portable training device with two independent units with a single point suspension to prevent injury.
TRANGO
Rock Prodigy Hangboard
A multiple size hold with crimp grips and pinch grips with bumpers. It's joint-friendly and ergonomic.
Metolius
Wood Grips Compact II
A natural wood grain training hangboard with a smooth texture ideal for home walls.
Who Needs To Use A Hangboard?
Let's face it...
If you want forearms like the rock climbing gods then you've got to start training like one. Here's what 10 years of climbing can do to your forearms:
Yeah... those aren't by mistake.
Anyone who wants to improve their grip strength and tackle harder climbing holds should use a hangboard for training. This way, you can see progress in your finger grips and get stronger at harder holds over time.
*Although, it is important to mention that hang-boarding is best implemented for intermediate to advanced climbers. For complete beginner climbers, your time may be better spent working on technique versus strength training. You can read more from climber Jonathan Siegrist on this topic.
How Do I Train On A Hangboard?
The following YouTube video shows an average climber training on a hangboard for a 30 day challenge with excellent results:
Before training on a hangboard he hit a plateau for a long time at around a V4-V5, yet never reaching a V6. (You can read more about the various bouldering grades).
After training for 30 days he was able to increase his hang time as follows:
- 1 inch rung: 30s to 46s
- 3/4 inch rung: 9s to 35s
- 1/2 inch rung: 0s to 4s
That's quite an improvement!
Tips For Hangboard Training
- Make sure that your shoulders are engaged. Instead of hanging with your shoulders down by your ears, bring them up.
- Bend your elbows a little bit. Not 90 degrees or anything, just to take the weight off.
The Hangboard Training Routine
Warm-up: Shake your hands out a bit to get blood in, and loosen your joints. Also, rotate your arms back to get your shoulders warm and activated beforehand.
- 10 seconds on.
- 10 seconds off.
- 10 seconds on.
- 10 seconds off.
- Rest for 4 minutes. (Let your body almost fully recover and then go again).
- Repeat 6-7 times.
- Do this every other day.
When you get better you can add in some weight. Like 5 lbs, 10 lbs, etc. Make it so that you can only hang at least 7 seconds, at most 10 seconds. See how this goes over a month, take a week off, and you should see some kind of progress moving forward.
Should I use chalk for hangboard training?
I would say that chalk can help you maintain a better grip on your hangboard.
The brand I'd recommend is the FrictionLabs loose gym chalk, or "Unicorn Dust" as they call it.
Many climbers find it helps to ease the roughness of the plastic hangboards, and make it nicer or easier to grip onto.
How worried should I be about injuries?
Most people never hurt themselves on a hangboard. You're not pulling or doing anything dynamic. You're just hanging. As long as you avoid wrapping your thumbs around your fingers, you'll be fine.
What if I feel weak today?
If you feel really sluggish one day you can workout first, or do some cardio, since it's really about getting your heart rate up for the exercise.
Are hangboards only good for beginners?
Hangboards are not just for beginner climbers. For example, take a look at the legendary climber Alex Honnold:
He continues to use a hangboard for part of his training routine.
How Do I Install A Hangboard?
Do you hesitate to buy a hangboard because it's complicated to install? Do you live in a rented apartment, and can't drill a whole in the wall? Don't worry!
Here's a step by step guide on how to install a hangboard with no damage to your wall:
The necessary tools and parts you will need for installation includes:
IMAGE
PRODUCT
PRODUCT DETAILS
OUR #1 RATED
Metolius
Project
You can choose any other hangboard you like from the rest of this post, this is just our top pick.
Iron Gym
Pull Up Bar
You will mount the hangboard to this as your base with other mounting brackets & wood base.
CBTONE
1/2" Galvanized Flange
You'll need two of these flanges for mounting to the base of the pull up bar.
Everflow Supplies
1/2" x 4" Nipple Pipe
You'll need two of these galvanized steel nipples to attach and screw into the flanges.
Duck
Duct Tape
You'll need some duct tape to thicken the nipple pipe so it fits in the pull up bar.
Hillman
8 x Small Wood Screws
These go into the galvanized flanges to attach to the wood base. I would choose size 14, length of 3/4".
Klein Tools
Screwdriver 11-in-1
For assembling and screwing together the pull up bar.
BLACK + DECKER
20V Max Lithium Ion Drill
Make sure you have a drill bit set as well. You will use the drill to create the holes in the wood base.
After installation your new hangboard is ready to go! Refer back to the video above for the step by step rundown.
If you're still unsure what hangboard may be best for you, continue reading the more in-depth section of the review!
How Do I Choose A Hangboard?
In order to choose a hangboard you first must determine what kind of material you prefer. The two options are between wooden or plastic.
Wooden hangboards offer a softer texture that's easier on the skin. This helps a lot if you climb outside, often on rocks and rough surfaces. However, they're less common and can be more expensive.
Plastic hangboards come in either polyester resin or polyurethane. Although most do not find a major difference between the two types.
As long as you like the look and design, don't worry too much about which kind of material board you choose.
Buy a hangboard for climbing that's got plenty of hold types for your needs. Most you find will have multiple thickness levels and ways to train your grip. This helps to provide some variation in your training routine, and room for improvement.
What Are The Best Hangboards For Climbing?
We've looked at a range of hangboards for climbing and have selected five hangboards. The main things we've looked at are quality, price, and sizing. We've reviewed these five hangboards and listed some pros and cons for each board.
our #1 rated
Metolius
Project
Quality
Price
Our rating
The Metolius project hangboard is available in 3 swirl colors and one size. The holds range in a broad arc for improved ergonomics and reduced injuries. It also comes with a fine texture and some mounting hardware.
Customers who purchased this board liked how they could work on their pulls and grip strength at the same time. People said that the hangboard takes up very little space as well. Customers also said that it was easy to hang off their pull up bar for installation.
Some customers who used this said that the screws that come with it are not that good. A few people commented that their board came with a crack in it. One customer also said that it was not wide enough.
PROS
CONS
our #2 rated
Metolius
Simulator 3D
Quality
Price
Our rating
The Metolius simulator 3D comes in 5 color options and one size. The hangboard features a massive variety of holds at a larger and wider size than most others. It also has a downward and outward taper for improved ergonomics and forearm clearance.
Customers who purchased this hangboard said that it's an excellent tool for finger, hand, and forearm strength. People said that the board is super solid and had no problem handling someone over 250 lbs. Customers also found the texture of the board to be excellent.
Some people who purchased this board said that it's great for grip training, yet much heavier than it looks. A few customers who used this also mentioned that the color was way off from what they ordered. Other customers reported that some were covered in a sticky resin that was hard to remove.
PROS
CONS
our #3 rated
Metolius
Rock Rings 3D
Quality
Price
Our rating
The rock rings 3D by Metolius come in four colors and one size. The set of small hangboards come as two independent units. Each are flexible and feature a single point suspension for the rotation of joints to help prevent and avoid injury.
Customers who purchased these rock rings said that they feature a good and sturdy build. Many customers also said that they have a nice rough texture for a non-slip grip. People commented that they're much simpler to install than most other hangboard options.
Many customers who purchased the rock rings said that they do have less grip options than what you'll find on a traditional hangboard. Other people found that there were some odd chemicals on them initially out of the box. A few customers also said that you'll need somewhere high to hang them depending on your height, and if you plan on using the included rope.
PROS
CONS
our #4 rated
TRANGO
Rock Prodigy Hangboard
Quality
Price
Our rating
The TRANGO Rock Prodigy hangboard comes in a few options and one color choice. It features the option for the "expert package" which includes a full training manual from both Mark and Mike Anderson. The hangboard also has a wide variety of different finger holds and crimp grips for training.
Customers who purchased this hangboard found it very easy to setup. Many people also said they like that you can adjust the width and angle of the individual holds. Customers also said that book was also quite helpful to learn more about climbing.
Some people who purchased this hangboard said that it does take a little bit of work to install. It requires you to mount it to something sturdy to get it ready for use. Other customers commented that their book was somewhat damaged in shipping.
PROS
CONS
our #5 rated
Metolius
Wood Grips Compact II
Quality
Price
Our rating
This Metolius Wood Grips Compact II is available in one size and color. The wooden hangboard features a soft and smooth texture. The natural wood grain also gives a more "classy" look in your doorway.
People who purchased this board said that it has a much smoother feel than the plastic hangboard alternatives. Some customers said that there was plenty of hold options for adequate training. Other people said that it was comfortable to hang onto.
Some customers who used this board found it to be too soft and that it did not provide enough texture for friction. A few customers even said it may work better as a dinner board. Other people also said that the design can be somewhat expensive for what it offers.
PROS
CONS
To Conclude
Each hangboard we've reviewed works for climbers looking to improve their grip strength and tackle harder holds. All the hangboards feature decent materials, multiple hold sizes, and simple mounting systems.
After comparing all the products the best hangboard is the Metolius Project.
This hangboard works well for both pros and beginners alike. It can hold heavier individuals with ease and can offer different grip options for training. We also like the fact that the board comes in multiple unique color options.